Stelo Italian Wine

The name Malvasia covers a large collection of vines, some of which are white, others red. Wines made from the various clones and biotypes tend to share similar characteristics: they usually have (in varying degrees of intensity) a musky, apricot-tinged fragrance as well as high residual sugar levels. These qualities make Malvasia particularly suitable for the production of both sparkling and passito wines. The word Malvasia is derived from a corruption of Monemvasia, the name of a Byzantine fortified city built on a rock off the coast of the south-eastern part of the Peloponnese. The city is connected to the mainland by a single road leading to its main gate, and its name, Monemvasia, literally means ‚ionly one entry point‚i. The Venetians landed here in 1248 and established a trading agreement with the locals, whereby they sold the sweet wines of the area throughout Europe under the name Monemvasia. The Venetians brought the ‚iMonemvasia‚i vine first to Crete and later to Italy, where they encouraged its cultivation throughout the Mediterranean Basin. Wine made from the variety was a very popular trading commodity, and during its heyday, Venice was filled with osterias devoted solely to Monemvasia/Malvasia. Malvasia bianca: This biotype is found primarily in southern Italy, where it is usually blended with other varieties. It comes into its own in the Puglian DOC zone of Leverano, in the province of Lecce, where it is a major component in four very distinct types of wine. It makes up at least 85% of the blend of Leverano Bianco (a dry white) and of Leverano Bianco Passito (a velvety textured sweet white). Grapes for this latter wine are left to semi-dry on the vine or on racks in well-ventilated lofts before pressing. There is also a late-harvest Malvasia made in this zone. The grapes for this wine are left on the vine until at least October 1st. This wine reaches a minimum alcohol level of 14.5°. In Calabria, Malvasia Bianca can comprise up to 50% of Bivongi Bianco, a DOC zone located in the province of Reggio Calabria. It also provides a large part of the blend of the aperitif wine, San Vito di Luzzi Bianco. malvasia del chianti This sub-variety has existed for centuries in Tuscany and was part of the original recipe for Chianti, perfected by baron Bettino Ricasoli in 1870. Malvasia del Chianti is now also fairly widespread in the Veneto, Puglia and Lazio, and is often teamed up with its perennial partner, Trebbiano Toscano, in the blends of dry and sweet whites, the most famous of which is Orvieto. Malvasia bianco di candia: . This sub-variety is grown principally in Lazio, and to a lesser degree in Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, Tuscany and Liguria. In Lazio it is a major component (along with Trebbiano Toscano) in such DOC wines as Castelli Romani Bianco, Cerveteri Bianco, Circeo Bianco, Colli Albani, Colli della Sabina and Cori Bianco. It is also makes up part of the blend for Lazio‚is most popular wine: Frascati. In addition to the dry version, this wine is made in a semi-sweet (amabile) and a fully sweet style (called canellino). When Frascati has a minimum alcohol level of 11.5°, it can be labelled superiore. If the wine is bottled before December 31st of the vintage year, it is called Novello. And let‚is not forget sparkling Frascati! Malvasia di Candia aromatica: To make things a tad more confusing, there also exists Malvasia di Candia Aromatica. The Aromatica is said to have a finer perfume. This Malvasia is cultivated mainly in Emilia, particularly in the provinces of Piacenza, Parma and Reggio Emilia. It is the primary component in a number of dry and semi-sweet wines, made in still, semi-sparkling, fully sparkling and passito styles. It is also the major component in Lombardy‚is Oltrepo Pavese Malvasia. This wine, too, can be dry, sweet, still, semi-sparkling or fully sparkling. Malvasia del Lazio: This sub-variety is most widely planted in Lazio, where it is cultivated mainly in the DOC zones of Marino and Castelli Romani. It is becoming ever more popular with Frascati producers, who are increasing its role in that wine. Malvasia istriana: The first documented reference to the variety istriana dates from around 1300. This sub-variety is cultivated mainly in Friuli Venezia-Giulia, and dry varietal Malvasia is produced in every DOC zone in the region. I often find a distinct note of mandarin oranges in wines made from this variety. Malvasia di sardegna: Malvasia is thought to have arrived in Sardinia during the island‚is Byzantine era. It is the major component in four wine styles: dry, sweet, sweet fortified and dry fortified. It makes up at least 95% of Malvasia di Bosa and Malvasia di Cagliari. Malvasia di Lipari: This Malvasia sub-variety was brought to the Lipari or Aeolian islands (a volcanic archipelago off the north-east coast of Sicily) by the Greeks. The variety was in decline in 1963 when Carlo Hauner, a designer and painter, arrived on the island of Salina as a tourist. He was so struck by the beauty of the place that he moved there. Mr. Hauner, who passed away in the 1990s, is considered largely responsible for resurrecting the vineyards and reputation of this vine. A pleasant dry white wine is made from fresh grapes, but it is Malvasia delle Lipari Passito (made from semi-dried grapes) that has the more important reputation. This passito, which has a minimum alcohol level of 18°, has a crisp, appealing flavour which hovers between hazelnuts and wild flowers. A fortified (liquoroso) style, which has a minimum alcohol level of 20°, is also made. Dry Malvasia: straw yellow to pale gold. Fresh and fruity on the nose. Light almond and hazelnut notes, with distinct floral tones and more elusive apricot hints on the palate. The medium to high alcohol level results in good structure. Not all producers are capable of achieving these clean, well-balanced results. They allow the alcohol to get the upper hand, thus negating any charm the fruit may have to offer. Sweet Malvasia: pale gold. Good structure. Hazelnut and almond notes mingle with floral tones on the nose, and re-emerge on the palate. A rich texture and fine, clean finish.