Stelo Italian Wine

Nebbiolo is Piedmont‚is premium red grape variety and is the primary component in four of the region‚is DOCG wines. It is believed to have originated in the hilly zones around the town of Alba, south-east of Turin, and it continues to have an affinity for hillside or even mountainous sites. It is a late-ripening variety, with harvest often taking place in mid-October or even November, when autumn fog settles into the valleys. Some suggest that this may be the origin of Nebbiolo‚is name (nebbia = fog). Others think the name may be derived from the pale bloom on the grapes‚i skins which gives them a misty appearance. Nebbiolo is a sensitive variety and is extremely demanding in terms of setting, terrain and climate. It requires high altitude and not too arid sites with good exposure. Its successful cultivation zones lie in the most northern reaches of Italy, in the regions of Valle d‚iAosta, Lombardy and Piedmont. Its best known vineyard sites remain in its birthplace: the Langhe hills. Here the soil is mostly limestone-based, with varying proportions of sand and clay. This is the area where Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo d‚iAlba and Roero are produced. Barolo: It was a Frenchman who set Barolo on the road to becoming a great wine. At the beginning of the 1800s, eminent French enologist Count Oudart came to the zone at the behest of Marchioness Falletti of Barolo. He suggested, in truly French manner, that the Italians should consider making wines from Nebbiolo ‚iin the style of Bordeaux‚i. This meant dry and with well-defined structures instead of the sweet, unfocused and often fizzy versions which existed as a result of lackadaisical winemaking practices. The Marchioness and Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, who was to become Italy‚is first Prime Minister, threw themselves into creating a full-bodied, long-lived red, the ancestor of today‚is Barolo wine. The Barolo zone, which was awarded the DOCG in 1980, lies to the south of the Tanaro River in the communes of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d‚iAlba, and parts of those of La Morra, Monforte d‚iAlba, Verduno, Grinzane Cavour, Diano d‚iAlba, Roddi, Novello and Cherasco. Barolo is made from 100% Nebbiolo and undergoes a minimum of three years ageing, two of which must be in cask. Breathing in deeply over a glass of Barolo is a heady experience. Its perfume is of warming alcohol-drenched fruit, shot through with notes of liquorice and yellow roses. On the palate, it is a potent mix of rich, brambly fruit – mulberries, sour cherries, blueberries – shaped and defined by zesty acidity and tannins. Most Barolos approach their peak at five or six years after the vintage. From certain producers in excellent years, the wine can continue to evolve for decades. Barbaresco: In the late 1800s, Domizio Cavazza, the first director of Alba‚is enology school, bought vineyards in Barbaresco and began experimenting with new techniques. Cavazza‚is passion for the zone led him to establish the Cantina Sociale del Barbaresco in 1893. For some, this marks the date of Barbaresco‚is birth as an important wine. Still, for many years, Barbaresco continued to live in Barolo‚is shadow. Then, in the late 1970s, Barbaresco was brought to international attention ba famous producer of the zone. Now Barolo and Barbaresco can be considered as equals in the world of fine wine. Barbaresco received the DOCG designation in 1980. Its vineyards are planted at 200-350 metres above sea level and lie to the east of Barolo. This zone is drier and warmer than Barolo. The wine is made from 100% Nebbiolo and is aged for two years, one of which must be in wood. Barbarescos are usually ready to drink four or five years after the vintage, although some can continue to evolve for ten years or more. Barbarescos are often said to be more elegant and supple than Barolo. I believe that this description largely depends on the skill of the producer. But when looking for differences between the two zones, I do consistently find a salty/savoury quality in Barbaresco, which Italians refer to as sapidit . Alba – Roero: The Nebbiolo d‚iAlba zone covers a wide area in the province of Cuneo. The dry red versions of this wine, which must be aged for at least one year, are generally straight-forward, soft and fruity. They are usually ready to drink within three or four years from the vintage. A sweetish sparkling version is also produced, although you are hardly likely to come across this wine outside of the zone. The Roero DOC zone includes the entire communes of Canale, Corneliano d‚iAlba, Piobesi d‚iAlba and Vezza d‚iAlba and parts of another fifteen communes in the Province of Cuneo. Roero Rosso is made from 95-98% Nebbiolo, with the possibility of adding Arneis, a local white variety. This fruity style of Nebbiolo can be drunk within two years of the vintage. Alpines wines: Wines made from Nebbiolo grapes grown at high altitudes have extraordinary grace and elegance. These qualities are perhaps best expressed in Carema. This zone is composed of a narrow strip of well-exposed vineyards near the town of Carema in the province of Turin on the border with Valle d‚iAosta. Carema is made from 100% Nebbiolo and is aged for three years in wood. When aged for an additional year it is labelled riserva. The wine has marked acidity and hints of alpine flowers, mint and tar on the nose. It should be drunk four to six years from the vintage. Near the Swiss border in northern Lombardy, Nebbiolo is known as Chiavennasca, a name derived from the dialect term ‚iciu vinasca‚i, which can be translated as ‚imost suitable for wine‚i. Chiavennasca is the primary variety for Valtellina and Valtellina Superiore (DOCG since 1998), whose narrow terraced vineyards are high up on Alpine slopes. Valtellina is best drunk within one to three years from the vintage, while Valtellina Superiore, which is aged in wood for at least a year, can continue to evolve for five to ten years. This latter designation has four sub-zones: Sassella, Grumello, Inferno (so called because of the high temperatures attained in its vineyards) and Valgella. The floral and herbal fragrances of Nebbiolo are highlighted in these wines and, with age, they develop attractive nuances of almond and hazelnut. A local speciality is Valtellina Sforzato or Sfursat. The grapes for this dry passito Nebbiolo are picked before the regular harvest and then semi-dried on racks. After three years in barrel, the wine is very concentrated and its alcohol level can reach around 14.5°. The Valle d‚iAosta, Italy‚is smallest region, lies between Piedmont and a range of snow capped peaks ‚i Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn and Gran Paradiso – which separate the region from France and Switzerland. Here Nebbiolo is known as Picutener or Picotendro. Valle D‚iAosta produces two Nebbiolo-based DOC wines. Arnad-Montjovet is made from a minimum of 70% Nebbiolo, to which the following varieties may be added alone or in combination: Dolcetto, Vien de Nus, Pinot Nero, Neyret and Freisa. This wine must be aged for at least eight months and have a minimum alcohol level of 11°. Arnad-Montjovet tends to be very fresh on the nose. Its attractive lifting acidity carries through onto the palate, which often displays a spicy note of black pepper over the brambly/blackberry fruit. When it has been aged for one year and has a minimum alcohol level of 12° it can be labelled as superiore or superièur. Donnas is primarily Nebbiolo, with the possible addition of Freisa and Neyret. The wine must have a minimum alcohol level of 11.5° and be aged for two years before being released onto the market. Donnas tends to be cherry-tinged ruby in colour. A perfume of candied violets mingles with brambly/blackberry hints on the nose. On the palate, the soft, round fruit, with its attractive dash of freshly ground pepper, is buoyed by vivacious acidity. Barolo/Barbaresco: Medium-deep ruby red with garnet to orange overtones. When Nebbiolo is aged in small, new oak barrels the colour will be darker. There should be an exhilarating rush of freshness on the nose, followed immediately by warming broader elements, which can include candied cherries, bitter cherries, plums, strawberries and raspberries. There are also darker tones of chocolate, hazelnuts, liquorice, with herbs, cinnamon and vanilla as well. With age, the wine develops a more pronounced orange tone, and suggestions of roses, dried violets, tar and freshly ground almonds and hazelnuts emerge on the nose and the texture on the palate becomes silkier. Alpine Nebbiolo. Medium cherry-tinged ruby in colour. Their body is supple and their perfumes fresh and elegant. One finds violets, alpine flowers, blueberries, brambles, mint, and a touch of tar or black pepper on the nose and palate. Food pairings: Barolo and Barbaresco ‚i braised, stewed and roast red meats and game; aged cheeses. Alpine Nebbiolo: truffle fondue or roast veal.