Stelo Italian Wine

Sangiovese, which is believed to have been cultivated since Etruscan times in the area around Florence, is found throughout Italy and is responsible for some of the country‚is finest and most memorable wines. One popular theory suggests that Sangiovese‚is name may have come from a corruption of the phrase sanguis Jovis (the blood of Jove). Sangiovese, like Pinot Nero, is subject to a great deal of clonal variation and as a result its colour and structure vary dramatically. Basically, the different clones fall into two main groups: Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. Grosso is lower yielding and has smaller, thicker-skinned berries and therefore the wines made from it tend to have a darker colour and better ageing potential. It is likely that the Piccolo sub-variety was introduced into Tuscany in the 19th century. With its higher productivity it soon began to gain ground from the Grosso, and quickly spread into Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, Abruzzo, Lazio, Puglia and Campania. Chianti: The word ‚iChianti‚i was applied for the first time to indicate a geographical zone in 1100. In 1384 the word was extended to the wine from the zone (in a statute issued by the Chianti League for administrative purposes). The wine‚is modern history, however, begins with Baron Bettino Ricasoli (who became Prime Minister of Italy in 1870). The Baron established the recipe for Chianti that eventually became part of the DOC laws for the zone. This early version called for two red grapes (Sangiovese and Canaiolo) and two white grapes (Trebbiano and Malvasia). After World War II, changing economic realities practically put an end to activity in the vineyards. Rural poverty forced young people to move to the cities to find work. By the 1950s and 1960s farms could be bought for small change, and foreigners -particularly Americans, Germans, the British and Swiss ‚i swarmed in to take advantage of bargain prices. Also, a great many Italian vineyard owners in the zone are originally from other parts of Italy. In 1967 the DOC was granted to the Chianti and Chianti Classico zones, even if, in international markets, the name ‚iChianti‚i was most closely associated with cheap red wine. The Chianti Classico zone lies between the tourist-magnet cities of Siena and Florence, while the larger area surrounding it is known simply as Chianti. This latter zone includes seven sub-zones. Each of these has its own particular terroir, history and style. In the 1970s a serious move was made to improve the quality and the reputation of Chianti in general, and in1984 Chianti and Chianti Classico were rewarded with DOCG recognition. The approved formula for these wines changed: the amount of white grapes was drastically reduced and Cabernet was authorised as a possible component. In 1996 the DOCG laws changed, establishing separate DOCG regulations for the Chianti and Chianti Classico zones. From that time, it was possible for Chianti Classico to be made from up to 100% Sangiovese and the use of barriques was permitted. The seven sub-zones of Chianti can be divided into two sets. The first group (Colli Aretini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane and Montalbano) tends to produce light, fresh, easy-drinking wines. The Colli Aretini, the most easterly area, lies between the Classico zone and the town of Arezzo. Wines from this sub-zone are medium to light bodied and are usually intended for drinking young. The vineyards for the Colline Pisane (the most westerly sub-zone) lie in the hills south-east of Pisa. The wines from this sub-zone tend to be soft and fruity and are also generally not suitable for ageing. The Colli Senesi, the largest sub-zone, includes a major part of the vineyards in the province of Sienna (excluding those in the Classico zone). Its borders reach to San Gimignano and descend to Montalcino and Montepulciano. Usually the wines from this area are fruity and youthful. However, age-worthy wines are sometimes also produced: the style depends on the microclimate and the skill and intention of the winemaker. The Montalbano sub-zone is located west of Florence and south of Pistoia, and is adjacent to the Carmignano zone. Its wines are lighter bodied and best consumed within a few years from the vintage. The second group of sub-zones ‚i Colli Fiorentini, Montespertoli and R¹fina ‚i tends to produce wines which have the structure to age well. The regulations governing their production require a minimum alcohol level of 12°, half a degree higher than the sub-zones mentioned earlier. With additional ageing and with a minimum alcohol level of 12.5°, the wines from these sub-zones can be labelled riserva. The Colli Fiorentini sub-zone borders Chianti R¹fina at Pontassieve and descends to the outskirts of Florence, touching the northern border of Classico at the town of Strada in Chianti. From its 835 hectares of vineyards, the sub-zone‚is 171 producers turn out around 1.5 million bottles annually. Due to its size, a wide range of styles are produced: some are elegant and long-lived, others fresh and youthful. Again, the style depends on the microclimate and the intentions of the producer. The sub-zone of Montespertoli, which overlaps at points with the Colli Fiorentini, was awarded its own independent status in 1998. Until some years ago, this area was appreciated for its fresh easy-drinking wines. But recent replanting with new Sangiovese clones and drastically reduced yields has resulted in wines that are capable of ageing for three to five years. Many of Montespertoli‚is 15 producers tend to use 100% Sangiovese for their riserva wines, which have an obligatory ageing period of three years before they are released onto the market. Montespertoli Chiantis tend to have a velvety texture and that touch of violets on the nose that also distinguishes the elegant and long-lived wines of Chianti Rºfina, the coolest of the sub-zones. The wines from Chianti Rºfina are considered by many to rival the best Chianti Classico has to offer. Rºfina‚is territory includes the communes of Rºfina and Pelago and, in part, those of Dicomano, Londa and Pontassieve (this last borders the Colli Fiorentini area). Its vineyards are planted at between 200 and 600 metres above sea level on Apennine foothills north-east of Florence. The blend for R¹fina can include up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot. Local producers are currently giving more attention to Sangiovese and most replanting is with this variety. To be labelled riserva the wine must be aged for at least two years in wood. R¹fina wines, which are well-known for their ageing potential, are fuller and have higher acidity than wines from the other sub-zones. Brunello di Montalcino: Undistinguished wines had been produced on the hillsides surrounding the ancient Tuscan town of Montalcino since the Middle Ages. This might have remained the case had it not been for the Biondi-Santi clan, a family of winemakers, viticulturists and shrewd marketers. Popular legend says that in the mid-1800s, Clemente Santi produced a wine he called Vino Rosso Scelto, which won top honours at exhibitions in London and Paris, as well as in Italy. Some years later his grandson, Ferruccio Biondi Santi, succeeded in identifying and isolating the local mutation of the Sangiovese Grosso grape that gave his grandfather’s Rosso Scelto its exceptional concentration of fruit. Ferruccio produced the first vintages made solely from this sub-variety in the 1870s and ’80s, thereby creating the prototype for modern daBrunello di Montalcino. In 1964 Tancredi Biondi-Santi assisted in drawing up the DOC production regulations for the zone. In 1980 Brunello di Montalcino became one of the first wines to obtain the even more prestigious DOCG designation. Brunellos are aged for a total of four years, two of which must be in barrel. Riservas are aged for a total of five years. There are now many fine producers offering powerful and well-structured wines from this zone. Rosso di Montalcino: In 1984 DOC status was granted to Rosso di Montalcino. This wine is similar to Brunello in that it is made from the same sub-variety of Sangiovese Grosso. However, yields are usually higher and the wine has a lower alcohol level and is aged for only one year. In other words, it has a similar flavour but is more easily accessible, both in terms of structure and price. Vino nobile di Montepulciano: Here Sangiovese is represented by the sub-variety known as Prugnolo Gentile. The name ‚iPrugnolo‚i most likely refers to the plum (prugna) colour of the grape. The ‚iGentile‚i was added to lend a touch of refinement to the name. The wines from this small zone have long been appreciated. They were among Thomas Jefferson‚is many favourites, and also ended up at the White House when Martin Van Buren was President. Alexandre Dumas mentioned Vino Nobile in The Count of Montecristo and Voltaire had Candide praise ‚imacaroni, the partridges of Lombardy, sturgeon‚is eggs and the wine of Montepulciano.‚i The wine became nobile in the 18th century. The designation nobile may have been used to indicate wine which was of exceptional quality and therefore suitable for noblemen who could pay a higher price. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is made from a minimum of 70% Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile), with Canaiolo Nero and the possible addition of lesser percentages of other varieties. The wine must be aged for two years before being released onto the market. Vino Nobile was among the first wines to receive the DOCG denomination. Some tasters detect a distinct note of violets on the nose of this wine. Rosso di Montepulciano: This wine comes from the same production zone as Vino Nobile. However, yields are usually higher and the wine has a slightly lower alcohol level. It serves the same purpose as Rosso di Montalcino, offering a more immediate and cheaper version of the more important wine of the zone. Morellino di Scansano: The Morellino di Scansano zone is a windswept collection of hills in the province of Grosseto between the Ombrone and Albegna rivers. For years, a few producers quietly turned out attractive if austere high quality reds. The zone‚is fortunes changed when the demand for Chianti began to outstrip the supply. For Chianti producers the Morellino di Scansano zone offered an ideal way to expand their production and keep their customers satisfied. Chianti producers began buying up land in the zone. This attracted the attention of outside investors and today land in the Morellino di Scansano area is hot property. New vineyards and state-of-the-art wineries are springing up daily. Morellino di Scansano is made from Sangiovese (known as Morellino in these parts), to which small amounts of other red grape varieties may be added. The wine may be labelled riserva when it has a minimum alcohol level of 11.5° and it has been aged for at least two years. Carmignano: Carmignano‚is entire production zone lies within the communes of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano in the province of Prato. The DOCG laws allow up to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The wines must be aged for a minimum of eighteen months. When they are aged for three years they may be labelled as riserva. From top vintages, this wine can be very long-lived. Bolgheri: This zone became DOC in 1994 and lies in the commune of Castagneto Carducci in the province of Livorno. Its most famous representative is the Cabernet Sauvignon-based Sassicaia. Sangiovese plays a part in Bolgheri Rosso and Rosato (ros©). It is also a major component (along with Malvasia Nera) in the unusual Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice. This medium-sweet pale red, which has a minimum alcohol level of 16°, is made from semi-dried grapes. It has more depth than most Vin Santos, with more seductive sensations of fruit preserves on the palate. Montescudaio: This hilly zone is located south-east of Livorno in the province of Pisa, and lies between the Chianti and Bolgheri zones. It was granted the DOC in 1977 for a Trebbiano Toscano-based white, Vin Santo, and a Sangiovese-based red. The DOC regulations allow for the inclusion of small percentages of Trebbiano and Malvasia to the red blend. Montescudaio reds tend to be similar to the lighter styles of Chianti. As with many emerging zones, there are producers of Montescudaio who are attempting to create more substantial, full-bodied wines Sangiovese di Romagna (Emilia-Romagna): A part of this zone lies in the foothills of the Apennines, which separate Romagna from Tuscany. The wine is made from Sangiovese with the possible addition of up to 15% other red grapes. It has a minimum alcohol level of 11.5°. When it has a minimum alcohol level of 12° and is aged for 6 months it can be labelled as superiore. If it is aged for at least two years it may be labelled riserva. This zone is capable of producing rich, plummy, silky-textured wines from Sangiovese Grosso. Three of this wine‚is top producers (Fattoria Zerbina, Drei Don¡ and San Patrignano) have joined together to form the Convito di Romagna, with the intention of promoting high quality Sangiovese di Romagna. Rosso Piceno (Marche): Rosso Piceno is the Marche‚is largest DOC zone. It stretches south to near the border with Abruzzo and includes the provinces of Ancona, Macerata and Ascoli Piceno. The primary grapes used for this DOC are Sangiovese and Montepulciano. The word superiore on the label indicates that the grapes for the wine were grown in a small area in the southern part of the zone. The best examples of Rosso Piceno are filled with raspberry and mulberry fruit and have a fresh, clean finish. Torgiano Rosso Riserva (Umbria): The zone lies in the hills overlooking the town of Torgiano in the province of Perugia. The wine, which became DOCG in 1990, is made primarily from a blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo. The wine must have a minimum alcohol level of 12.5° and be aged for three years before being released onto the market. Ruby-red, tending to garnet with age. Its perfumes should be rich and full. Some tasters find hints of leather, tobacco, truffles, figs, mulberries, raspberries, vanilla and cinnamon on the nose. Young Sangiovese has a ripe cherry fruit flavour, with a cherry stone bitterness on the finish. Food pairings: Braised or stewed red meats, game (particularly wild boar). Vegetarians need not despair, Sangioveses also go well with intensely flavoured dishes based on mature and spicy cheeses, such as Gorgonzola or aged Pecorino or Parmigiano.