DNA testing has proved that Verdicchio, Trebbiano di Soave and Trebbiano di Lugana are one and the same. Under these last two names it is widespread throughout the Veneto, where it may be a component in the blends of Soave, Gambellara and Bianco di Custoza. It can also be a part of the blends of the Lombardy DOCs of Capriano del Collie Trebbiano, Colli Morenici Mantovani del Garda Bianco and Lugana. These wines are discussed in more detail in the Trebbiano chapter. In the Marche, the variety is known as Verdicchio, a name which is likely derived from the greenish (verde) highlights found in the wine. Verdicchio can attain 13% alcohol with ease, and, when yields are controlled and harvesting is carried out with care, wines made from the variety have good structure, high extract and a luscious strain of apricot-like fruit, which fills out the mineral/salty note that is its hallmark. Its malleable character – which is not unlike Chardonnay ‚i allows it to be used in a variety of styles: from dry sparklers, to fresh and zesty quaffing wines, to weightier (at times oaked) versions and even passito dessert wines. Not surprisingly it accounts for around two-thirds of the Marche‚is DOC production. Its two major vineyard areas surround the medieval town of Jesi and the hamlet of Matelica. The Esino River, which has its source in the Apennines, runs through the centres of these two towns on its way to the sea. In the distant past, this area was the basin of a lagoon, and its clay/sandy soil is extremely rich in minerals, particularly iron and magnesium. Some authorities say the variety was already established here by the 8th century BC. The vineyards of the Matelica zone lie south-west of Jesi, and are planted at higher elevations on the foothills of the Apennines. There is a distinct difference in the styles of the two zones. The wines of Jesi tend to have forward elder flower aromas and broader fruit tones. Verdicchio from the Matelica zone is more restrained and elegant, with a delicate but persistent note of apricot fruit. When the wine is made from grapes grown in mature vineyards, which have naturally restricted yields and a deep and complex root system, Verdicchio can develop an intensity of flavour and true ageing capacity. Zippy acidity. Apricot and elder flower notes on the nose and palate.
